Four Seasons
of Recipes
September 18, 2016
FALL
Lamb chili with corn masa dumplings
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Active time: 1 1/4 hr Total time: 4 1/4 hr
For chili
10 dried mild New Mexico chiles (2 1/2 to 3 oz)
5 cups water
3 1/4 lb boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped (2 cups)
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
3 tablespoons finely chopped canned chipotle chiles in adobo
For dumplings
3/4 cup masa harina (corn tortilla mix)
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup chilled lard or unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
3/4 cup well-shaken buttermilk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Preparation
Make chili:
Simmer dried chiles in 2 cups water, covered, in a 2-quart heavy saucepan until very soft, about 20 minutes. Reserve 3/4 cup cooking liquid, then drain in a colander. Stem chiles (do not remove seeds), then purée in a blender with reserved cooking liquid until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Force purée through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Reserve purée.
Pat lamb dry, then sprinkle with pepper and 1 teaspoon salt. Heat 2 tablespoons lard in a 6-quart wide heavy pot or a 3-inch-deep straight-sided skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown lamb in 4 batches (without crowding), turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a bowl.
Add remaining tablespoon lard to pot, then cook onion, garlic, bay leaves, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add cumin and oregano and cook, stirring frequently, 1 minute. Stir in reserved chile purée and chipotles and simmer, stirring frequently and scraping up brown bits from bottom of pot, 5 minutes. Add lamb along with any juices accumulated in bowl and remaining 3 cups water, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until lamb is tender, about 2 1/2 hours.
Make dumplings:
Stir together masa harina, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Blend in lard pieces with a pastry blender or your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add buttermilk, stirring just until dough is moistened (do not overmix).
Skim fat off chili and discard bay leaves, then drop 8 or 9 heaping tablespoons of dough onto simmering chili, about 2 inches apart. Reduce heat to low and gently simmer, covered, until tops of dumplings are dry to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro.
Cooks’ note: Chili is best when made at least 1 day ahead, without dumplings and cilantro, and can be made 2 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Discard fat from surface and reheat stew before adding dumplings and sprinkling with cilantro.
Texas Caviar (Pickled Blackeyed Peas)
1 pound dried black-eyed peas
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons salt
2 red bell peppers
1 small onion
2 large garlic cloves
6 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
2/3 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leafed parsley leaves
Preparation
Pick over black-eyed peas and rinse. In a 5-quart kettle simmer peas with bay leaf in water to cover by 2 inches until tender, 25 to 30 minutes, and remove kettle from heat. Stir in salt and let peas stand 5 minutes. Drain peas in a colander and discard bay leaf.
While peas are simmering, finely chop bell peppers and onion and mince garlic. In a large bowl whisk together vinegar and oil until combined well and stir in hot peas, bell pepper, onion, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Peas may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring peas to room temperature before serving. Just before serving, stir parsley into peas.
WINTER
Winter Greens Gratin
Yield: Makes 8 to 10 servings
1 tablespoon unsalted butter plus more for dish
2 pounds kale, center ribs and stems removed, torn into large pieces, or two 10-ounce bags trimmed, chopped kale (about 24 cups)
Kosher salt
2 1/2 pounds mustard greens, center ribs and stems removed, torn into large pieces
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, divided, plus 7 sprigs thyme
2 shallots, sliced into 1/4”-thick rounds (about 1 cup)
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
7 garlic cloves, smashed
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup coarsely grated Gruyère
Preparation
Lightly butter a 3-quart baking dish. Working in batches, blanch kale in a pot of boiling lightly salted water until just softened, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer kale to a large bowl of ice water; let cool, then drain. Squeeze out as much excess water as possible by hand and transfer kale to a work surface.
Repeat with mustard greens, blanching for 2 minutes per batch. Coarsely chop all greens and combine in a large bowl (you should have 6 cups tightly packed greens). Separate clumps and loosen chopped leaves by hand.
Heat oil in a 12” skillet over medium heat. Add breadcrumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and crispy, 8-10 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl; stir in Parmesan and 1 teaspoon thyme leaves. DO AHEAD: Greens and breadcrumbs can be made 2 days ahead. Cover greens and chill. Store breadcrumbs airtight at room temperature.
Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add shallots; cook, stirring often, until slightly softened and light golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer shallots to bowl with greens. Add cream, milk, garlic, and thyme sprigs to same saucepan; bring to a simmer. Cook until mixture is thickened and reduced to 1 1/2 cups, 10-12 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and garlic; stir in nutmeg. Season mixture with salt and pepper.
Pour cream mixture over greens in bowl and toss to evenly coat in sauce; season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer greens mixture to prepared baking dish; sprinkle Gruyère over. Top with breadcrumbs. Cover dish with foil. DO AHEAD: Gratin can be assembled 1 day ahead.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake until filling is hot, about 25 minutes. Uncover and bake until cheese is melted, edges are bubbling, and breadcrumbs are golden brown, 10-20 minutes longer. Garnish with remaining 1 teaspoon thyme leaves.
Cheddar Chorizo Dip
1 tsp. olive oil
1/2 large red onion, thinly sliced
1 lb. Mexican chorizo
8 oz. full-fat cream cheese
8 oz. cheddar cheese, shredded and divided in half
Heat the oven to 350 degrees and warm an 8-inch cast-iron skillet with the olive oil to medium-low heat on the stove.
Sauté the onions for 20 minutes or until they are soft. Transfer the onions to a mixing bowl and set aside.
Turn up the heat to medium. Brown and crumble the chorizo sausage until it is browned on all sides. Drain excess fat.
Add the sausage crumbles to the mixing bowl along with the cream cheese and half of the cheddar cheese. Stir until it is completely mixed, then transfer it back into the skillet. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top, completely covering the top.
Bake in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until the top of the cheese starts to bubble and turn golden brown. Serve warm with root vegetable chips or even by the spoonful. Serves 6 to 8.
- From “All-American Paleo Table: Classic Homestyle Cooking from a Grain-Free Perspective” by Caroline Potter (Page Street Publishing, $28)
— Addie Broyles
SPRING
Apples and Pomegranate with Yogurt and Toasted Quinoa
1 ½ tablespoons red quinoa
½ teaspoon honey
½ cup sheep’s milk or other plain yogurt
2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds
¾ cup yellow-skinned apple slices
In a dry skillet, toast quinoa over medium heat, stirring constantly until it darkens a bit and begins to pop intermittently, about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir teaspoon honey; the quinoa will clump into clusters. Spoon yogurt into a bowl. Top with pomegranate seeds, apple slices and the toasted quinoa.
— Connie Post
Spiced Carrot Soup With Lime
Total time: 40 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
3 tablespoons coconut oil, vegetable oil or ghee
2 medium onions, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
1 tablespoon chopped ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon toasted and ground coriander
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
Salt
2 pounds young carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small daikon radish, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 2 cups)
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 serrano pepper, finely chopped
Cilantro leaves, for garnish (optional)
Lime wedges, for serving
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Put a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons coconut oil. When oil is hot, add onions and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, or until onions are lightly browned. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric, coriander and cayenne and cook for one minute more, or just until fragrant. Season generously with salt.
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Add carrots and 8 cups water. Raise the heat and bring to a brisk simmer, then put on the lid and turn heat to low. Cook until the carrots are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from stove and let cool slightly. Purée in a blender in batches, then strain and return to soup pot. Thin with water if necessary; the soup should not be too thick. Set aside.
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While soup is cooking, simmer daikon in a few inches of salted water until tender, about 5 to 6 minutes. Drain and keep warm.
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Reheat the soup over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, heat remaining tablespoon of coconut oil in a small pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add mustard seeds, cumin seeds and serrano pepper. Cook for one minute, or until spices are fragrant and beginning to pop. Pour the entire contents of the pan into the soup and stir to combine. Taste for salt and adjust.
-
Divide daikon pieces among 4 to 6 warmed bowls and ladle over a cup or so of soup. Garnish with cilantro leaves, if using, and give each bowl a squeeze of lime.
Soup can also be served cold.
— David Tanis, © 2016 New York Times News Service
SUMMER
Farm Burger’s Kale Slaw
2 cups mayonnaise
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon pickled jalapeno juice
1 1/2 teaspoons celery seeds
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
2 bunches curly kale, washed and stems removed, roughly chopped (about 12 ounces, makes about 12 cups)
2 carrots, peeled and grated on a box grater (makes about 1 cup)
1 red onion, julienned (makes about 1 1/2 cups)
Salt
In a medium bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, apple cider vinegar, red wine vinegar, lemon juice, jalapeno juice, celery seeds and sugar. May be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.
In a large salad bowl, combine kale, carrots and onion. Add dressing and toss until vegetables are coated with dressing. Taste for seasoning, adding salt if needed. May be made up to 3 hours in advance. Keep chilled until ready to serve. Makes: 12 cups
Per 1-cup serving: 146 calories (percent of calories from fat, 90), 1 gram protein, 3 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 16 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 6 milligrams cholesterol, 113 milligrams sodium.
— CW Cameron
Vanilla-Honey Soft Serve Ice Cream
Yield: About 1 1/2 pints
Total time: 40 minutes, plus chilling
6 large egg yolks
1/2 cup/100 grams granulated sugar
1/3 cup/79 milliliters flavorful honey
2 teaspoons/10 milliliters vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 cups/710 milliliters heavy cream
3 ounces/85 grams cream cheese, cubed, at room temperature
1/3 cup/79 milliliters whole milk
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In a large bowl, whisk together yolks, sugar, honey, vanilla and salt until smooth.
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In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring cream to a simmer.
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Whisking the yolks constantly, slowly pour half the hot cream into the egg mixture. Scrape custard back into saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until custard is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (180 degrees on an instant-read or candy thermometer). Do not let mixture come to a simmer or it could curdle. Strain into a heatproof bowl and whisk in cream cheese until completely melted.
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Nestle bowl in a larger bowl filled with ice water. Using a hand mixer or immersion blender, whip custard until thick and cold, about 5 minutes. Spoon mixture into 3 or 4 ice cube trays. Freeze for at least 3 hours or overnight (or up to 1 week).
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Using an offset spatula or butter knife, pop out ice cream cubes. Transfer to a food processor or blender. Pulse cubes with milk until the ice cream is smooth and has the consistency of soft serve. Serve immediately, or return to container and freeze for up to 1 week.
— Melissa Clark, New York Times
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