Wassaw

Deserted island boasts
old-growth forest, solitary beauty

Photo: Pelicans mass on the extreme northern tip of Wassaw Island.


There is something intriguing about an uninhabited island.

It inspires fantasies of kissing that soul-grinding daily commute goodbye and escaping the madness of modern-day life. Of packing up those desert island music picks and all the books you’ve meant to read, being deposited on a little patch of paradise in the middle of the sea and channeling your inner Robinson Crusoe.

Those were the thoughts running through my head one day in April as Fran Lapolla of Savannah Coastal Ecotours piloted our Carolina skiff toward Wassaw, an uninhabited island off the coast of Georgia.

Fran Lapolla of Savannah Coastal Ecotours on a tour of Wassaw Island. Photo by Suzanne Van Atten

Wassaw is among the youngest of Georgia’s barrier islands, formed just 1,600 years ago. One of the few islands to never have been clear-cut for timber or farming, it is home to old-growth maritime forests of cedar, oak, pine, cabbage palm, magnolia and holly. But the uplands only constitute a small portion of Wassaw. Seventy-five percent of the 10,000-acre island is salt marsh.

It’s not unusual for islands to shift in size and shape over time due to ocean currents and weather patterns, but Wassaw’s shape-shifting has been more dramatic than others. As its northern shore erodes, leaving behind a boneyard of sun-bleached tree trunks, its southern shore has steadily accreted, resulting in a counterclockwise shifting of the island’s place in the world.

Human history is sparse and sporadic on Wassaw. Three hundred slaves were sent there in 1846 to avoid a cholera outbreak in Liberty County, but most of them are believed to have died on the island.

In 1866, George Parsons of Kennebunkport, Maine, bought Wassaw and built a couple of small cabins and a few roads. His heirs created the Wassaw Island Trust in 1930 to preserve its natural state. It was eventually sold to the federal government and is now a national wildlife refuge managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS).

Photo: The remains of Fort Morgan, constructed during the Spanish-American War, are exposed during low tide on Wassaw Island.

By Suzanne Van Atten The Atlanta Journal-Constitution June 2016 The first rays of sunrise highlight a pair of Black Skimmers dipping their long red and black bills into the water to catch small fish. Photos by Curtis Compton, except where indicated

The only way to get to Wassaw Island is by private or chartered boat. Plenty of people anchor offshore and spend the day on its 7 miles of wilderness beach, but they have to leave by sundown. Docking at Wassaw requires a special-use permit, and it’s reserved for people like Lapolla, who operate tours on the island.

On the day we arrive, it is unusually hot for early spring, so we limit our visit to a short hike through the wooded uplands from the dock on Wassaw Creek to a wide, white-sand beach littered with cannonball jellyfish and sand dollars. There isn’t another soul in sight. Had we been more ambitious, we might have traveled farther northeast to the ruins of tiny Fort Morgan, built during the Spanish-American War of 1898, but not on this day.

Photo: A Black Skimmer skims the surface of Beach Pond on the northern end of Wassaw Island.


In truth, Wassaw is inhabited from mid-May to Labor Day by the two-person staff and six volunteers who run the Caretta Research Project, the country’s longest continuously operating sea turtle saturation tagging program. During nesting season, staff and volunteers patrol all night long, tagging and collecting data on the females that lay their eggs here. This year has been a record-breaker — 101 nests accounted for as of June 10.

The public can participate in the tagging program for a $795 fee, which covers the cost of a week’s worth of meals and shared accommodations in one of the Parsons cabins.

In addition, the FWS runs controlled deer hunts on the island, so sportsmen sometimes stay overnight in primitive campsites during hunting season.

But for the rest of the time, Wassaw truly is a deserted island.

IF YOU GO

Private boats can launch from a public ramp by the Skidaway Island bridge. Charters depart from the marinas at Skidaway Island and Isle of Hope.

Savannah Coastal EcoTours. Fran Lapolla provides transportation and a hiking tour for $350. Departs from Isle of Hope Marina, 50 Bluff Drive, Savannah. 912-220-6092, www.savannahcoastalecotours.com.

Caretta Research Project. This long-running sea turtle tagging initiative is active on Wassaw from mid-May to Labor Day weekend. Volunteers can help for a $795 fee that includes meals and accommodations. 912-704-9323, www.carettaresearchproject.org.

For more information

U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. www.fws.gov/wassaw.

A small flock of Red Knots in breeding plumage take flight along the beach at First Fire Trail on Wassaw Island.

A flock of Brown Pelicans fly past the northern tip of Wassaw Island.

One solitary oak tree remains in the boneyard of hundreds of sun-bleached skeletons of oak, pine, palmetto, and cedar along the northern third of Wassaw Islands 5.5 mile strand of oceanfront beach.